I had a bitter sweet mentality this morning when I woke up.  My last day in Rwanda! I’m not quite sure what to write about today. I know this. My body requires less sleep than a few years back.  I had nothing to do today except get organized, reorganize, pack, repack and then repeat the cycle.  This is a common occurrence I suppose when you travel abroad.  It’s amazing all the loot and swag I collect along the way while traveling.  I’m like a little kid.  I see some trinket, pamphlet or a book of matches and I just have to have it as a souvenir.  These are the things that you scatter about on the bedroom floor when you get home and then try to engage the family in every detail of some meaningless material and why this is important.  That’s me. Gifts for loved ones and friends.  I do have fun buying for others. I was committed to spend every Franc on my person.  I was successful!  After breakfast in the lodge at 6:00am, I went back to start the packing process.  There was a knock on the door.  I called out, “Come in.”  The young man that waited on me for the past four days was standing there with a bag.  Big smile and partial grin with big wide open eyes!  “Mister Ooburot.  I have gift for you.  I hope you enjoy and come back to Kinigi Village.”  I opened the brown bag to find a Rawandan “wish basket” and a hand carved wooden wall piece.  Wow!  I went to shake his hand but recoiled and instead gave him a huge hug, one brother to another.  I think it’s so cool how proud he was.  From what I have seen and experienced throughout Rwanda, the people are proud and exceptionally generous.  It was hard not to tear up.

By mid-morning I could feel the muscles in my legs begin to tighten up from yesterday’s climb to Bisoke Crater Lake.  So, what was I to do?  Idea! I limped to the main lodge and spoke to the head concierge. I inquired about a massage.  “No problem Mister Yurburo. In 30 minutes massage will be at your room.”  Nice!  And that’s what happened.  A wooden table was brought in with padded blankets.  Next thing I knew my head was peering out my big cottage window at the Virunga Mountain range as strong hands worked magic on my body.  Just what I needed.  An hour massage for 40,000 Rwandan Francs.  After a quick shower I toted bags to the reception area and settled up with incidental expenditures. I had 45 minutes to eat my last lunch before Regis arrived at 2:30.

The drive time from Kinigi Village in Masanza to Kigali is roughly two hours. Regis insisted we take our time because we had ample time due to the fact that my flight was not scheduled to leave until 10:00pm. We drove around Masanza and he showed me his home.  There is a lot of new construction going on.  A 6 story, 2 block shopping building is underway.  Also, a new hotel is under construction. The economy is doing well and it shows.  

Church day foot traffic crowded the streets.  The colors of women’s fabrics and dresses were awesome!  It reminded me of Indian soiurees.  The “spirit” of the people was contagious. I said a quick prayer and reminded myself of just how grateful I am. I have been positively influenced by the dynamic culture of Rwanda.  In two short weeks, I have grown spiritually.  I feel so alive! The Rwandans have spoken to me in ways I never know possible.  The orphans of ZOE Ministries are responsible for my outlook on life today.  I prayed that I never let go of the feeling of love and peace. I prayed for the  safety, health and prosperity of ALL of Gods children. Amen!

Today was a busy busy day. I woke up again at 5:30am. I quickly arranged my day back for my a strenuous hike up Mount Bisoke. I also packed several boxes of condoms I brought from home to give to the Kinigi medical clinic. Rwanda, like so may African countries, has an HIV/AIDS problem as well as the lack of contraceptives. Hopefully, the boxe of condoms will be put to good use. The battered boxes were smushed from travel. I had to discard several boxes because I felt the contents were compromised. That would defeat the purpose. 

I have several pictures to post but my pictures are having a hard time downloading. Often, the power flickers and the Wifi takes a while for it to come back, so photos are hard to post during these times. The hike up Mt. Bisoke and Crater lake was incredibly strenuous. We hiked straight up to 12,500 feet gaining 4,000 feet from the start. Five miles up, five miles down. Alfonso was my porter. The views from the crater lake were magnificent. We started at 9:30 and finished at 4:00. The altitude was tough but that’s once we crossed to 12,000 feet. I was winded but after quick stops frequently and swigs of water I was back to putting one foot in front of the other. We arrived at the top at 12:15ish. I had an awesome picnic lunch from the hotel. Ham ‘n Cheese bananas, passion fruit and fig newtons never tasted so good! The hiking group consisted of mainly students and Peace Corp volunteers from the USA and France. The best hiker of the group was a 46 year old woman from Denver, CO. She has been reaching English in Kigari for the past year. She was in incredible shape! But I managed to hang with her as we led to group of 26 up this rugged beast of a mountain. Actually, our guide led and he was led by the National Park spotters carrying guns. 

We came down the mountain fairly quickly and breathing became normal. We arrived back at the parking lot at 4:00. I have hiked a lot of mountains. This hike was the most difficult climb of them all. The Grand and Middle Tetons in Jackson Hole, WY were easier than Mt. Bisoke (3,711 meters.) I’m happy about this accomplishment.

Regis and I then headed to the medical clinic down the road for my special safe sex delivery. I think he laughed at me the whole way there. He said he had never seen a visitor do this before. Oh well. We pulled up to the clinic and there was one man standing outside. We had a language breakdown and I think he was confused why I was there. The clinic was a small one room cement structure with an attached outhouse. There was a Red Cross above the front door. Regis stepped out and explained to the man of my intent. He left and came back with a woman that looked about 12 years old. She was equillivent to a physicians assistant. She was also the mid-wife of the village. She pointed us to go next door and a nurse who runs the Kinigi Health Centre will help us. Regis translated. We met the head nurse after security personnel cleared us. I didn’t catch his name. I handed him a brown bag full of condoms, feminine products and lots of cold and infection remedies. He loved the Airborne bottles. I tried to clean out my medicine bag. It was also nice to unload the maxi-pads and contraceptives I have been toting around.  Regis said I made a good choice on donated items. He said female products and “the condom” are very good gifts to the clinic. What a trip! We giggled all the way back to the hotel. I guess we can find humor in everthing.Amazing day! I’m happy to have a restful evening. I took four Advil. Now, off to dinner! 

Amahoro means ‘Peace’. I think I found peace today except when the female Mountain Gorilla brushed up against me as she and her infant baby made way past me to reach the next vegetarian buffet. Yep! That happened! I’m glad I had just relieved myself 25 minutes prior or else I would have had a wet and/or soiled gorilla experience. This image is two of the females (mom and baby girl) representing the Amahoro Group. I had the privilege to meet 15 of their family members at an elevation of 2,700 meters (or 9,100 ft.) Today was about Mountain Gorilla love!

My experiences in Rwanda for the past 12 days have scaled the spectrum of emotions. Today is no exception. I awoke bright eyed at 5:30am with a sunrise beaming through the window and sheer curtains opposite my bed. I had a predetermination and vision of what the day had in store. I was going to see Me Some gorilla!!!! The sunrise temperature was 48. Blue sky. No humidity. No breeze. The locals say this weather is typical for this time of year. In fact, 9 months out of the year the weather is consistent with this morning’s forecast. High 85 degrees and sunny. Perfect weather for my first mountain gorilla trek! I gathered my essential belongings and walked the pathway to the lodge for breakfast. This place is amazing in every way. The grounds are so well groomed and manecured. Endogenous plants and budding flowers give way to healthy butterflies and birds. Everything edible on the breakfast buffet had my name on it. Jeremy fixed me a loaded omelet. I crowded my omelet plate with fresh pineapple, banana and oatmeal. I was advised to eat a big breakfast because you don’t know what gorilla family you may be treking to. Some gorilla family addresses are 2-3 miles in the bush and others can be 4-6 miles. Easy, moderate or difficult routes to 8 different gorilla groups throughout the park are not assigned until you arrive at the Volcano National Park headquarter post. So, a full belly after breakfast is important for the unknown journey. Our guide was Jerome. He has a BS Social Science from the university in Butari. I hired a porter to carry my backpack. This $10 expense is not necessary but carrying people’s gear, no matter the weight, is what these guys do for a living. There were 9 of us in our grouping. We drove 2 miles to the entrance of the Park. Jerome informed us we may see buffalo, golden monkeys and an occasional elephant. Elephants in these parts are extremely dangerous because they’re aggressive. This is why our group was led by a National Park ranger with a semi-automatic weapon. We hiked for 3 miles until we came to a halt. Through a radio transmission Jerome was informed by gorilla spotters we should make an immediate left turn and begin the bush whacking trek. We followed our porters who used machetes to line a pathway. Crazy crazy crazy! And very steep. Footing was difficult. Alas! I turned to my left and five feet away from me I saw my first momma gorilla and baby. They were nestled in the thick bush. “No problem Huber (that’s French),” said Jerome. “You are good man. Sit down and take lots of picture. You are now in the home of 19 mountain gorilla family called Amahoro Group.” I think I said holy s##t! Me and momma, me and baby… Our eyes met for the first time from only 5 feet away. After a few minutes we bush whacked another 20 yards. Whoa!! The big daddy Silverback. Jerome said he was 25 years old. He was graciously eating shoots. 450 pounds and a huge head. I can’t remember what expletive came out of my mouth. He watched me but he was only observant from a 10 foot distance. I simultaneously took photos with my iPhone and my small Cannon. No need for zooms lense. Incredible! It’s a regulatory policy that visitors have only one hour to visit with the gorillas. Within a 30 yard radius we introduced ourselves to a total of 17 of the 19 Amahoro members. My words can’t describe the emotions I felt in that one hour. The only way to know is to experience this yourself. Sitting here writing this I am still speechless. I feel like I have been dreaming. I have jungle fever!

Tomorrow a guide will lead me up Mount Bisoke. It’s an active volcano in the Virunga Mountains. It straddles the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, but the summit is located in Rwanda. At 12,175 feet I hear the views are breathtaking! I can’t wait!!!! Enjoy a few pictures of our distant cousins. Love and PEACE!

It’s Thursday evening. My sensory system is perplexed by a noteworthy reality. Body odor is just something that occurs when there is limited water source and money to afford hygienic products. As a traveler to Third World countries it’s something you just get used to. Sure, it takes a few days to endure but you come around. I have just accepted the fact that I,too, stink! Rwanda is no different than so many foreign and third world countries. We are strongly advised not to drink tap water or have ice in our drinks. And while showering it takes a conscious effort not to let your mouth open.  Whatever happens, don’t swallow in Africa! Getting back to BO. I’m not completely convinced it’s me. I do my best to wash my hands and face often, shower daily and scrub with good ole Irish Spring and use Old Spice deodorant. In the last couple of days I’m not sure what the heck is going on! I said it above. I stink. While washing up before dinner tonight I thought it wise to take a quick shower. I have an awesome bathroom but there is definitely an issue. The hot water is far far far from warm. It also spews brown murky water. I did the best I could do to bird bathe with my wash cloth and Irish Spring. I looked at my wash cloth once my shivering subsided and it was completely brown. This was not dust off my body. Brown tap water. So, you have to make tough choices sometimes. Do you bathe in cold brown water or do you dab yourself with stick deodorant as often as you can? Or, do you just endure and accept You Stink. Jury is still out for me. 

TODAY:

Revis picked me up at 6:30 and took me to the National Park headquarters where I bought a pass for a guided trip for the Golden Monkey trek. It was a fabulous 40 minute hike deep into the jungle. We saw four large family of monkeys. I took lots of pictures and met some really cool people from Switzerland, New Zealand and Belgium. 

At 1:00 I had Revis arrange a public school visit with primary grade children (1st grade -8th grade.) It was so fun! Each class welcomed me with a song in English. In return I told them about President Obama, the Statue of Liberty and LeBron James. I did try to lead them in Bob Marley’s song “One Love”. I think I convinced them they were better singers than me. The rest of the day was spent relaxing back at the resort interacting with staff and guests from all over the world. It was nice to have a “nothing to do” day.  Enjoy a few pictures of Golden Monkeys and landscape. Tomorrow is my gorilla trek. Jungle boogie!

It’s Wednesday in Butare. Hump day! It’s also our last day in Rwanda as a ZOE group. Let me clarify: My last day with this group of 14 brothers and sisters whom I’ve had the privilege to get to know in the best possible way. This has been my first mission trip.  I’m not sure what took me so long to commit. For years I have heard people’s stories of how mission trips helped them grow in all aspects of their lives. Today I’m a believer in the journey of mission work. I learned a valuable lesson about the ZOE mission. There is a two way street benefit to serving others that works concomitantly. First direction: I pour my heart and soul into these kids and I feel proud,uplifted and whole because I’m convinced I’m making a difference in their lives. Opposing direction: The kids receive the power of love from us Missionaries. They see how the power of God is working in their lives. They feel the transformation. They witness me, the Muzungu (white man) cry tears of joy. They witness the forces of the human spirit collide and they feel hope and pride. 

Their eyes tell the story. I watched as Josilina, a 17 year old matriarch, hold her little sister and brother close to her side as her 65 orphans brother and sisters sang African spirituals upon our arrival. Josilina’s eyes said to her siblings, “We are with God. We are better now.” The pace of their clapping and foot stomping rhythms would rapidly increase whenever their eyes met. Hope! Love! Pride! As Pastor Jerry would say, “That’s God working baby!” We experienced a number of these “gifts” today as we traveled to a bustling village called Mater Boni Consilil southeast of Butare. We passed a huge banana tree orchard that the orphans in this Sector (Village) harvest and plant year round. The banana leaves are sold to the nearby beer distillery that produces Rwandan banana beer. We also took notice of the fish ponds. Interesting…..The ponds have raised wooden platforms over the lake beds that resemble chicken coups. Not for chickens. The ZOE orphans raise rabbits in these structures. The coups floors are wired mesh which gives way for rabbit poop to fall into the water. The fish eat the poop. Everyone wins with this efficiency and genius until the slaughtering takes place at the local village market. Our next stop was the bustling agricultural market of the Sector. We met our first group of orphans that are sponsored by Wally Fridy, Jay Hill and a BSUMC Sunday School class. They have just completed their first year with ZOE. We met Josilina (16) and Josephina (17). Their wholesale produce included tomatoes, avacado, rooted veggies, bananas, and a lot of other native Rwandan seedlings that I can’t recall names for. Their orphan brothers were also rocking! We made way to the community center where we met the whole group. This is where I focused on the eyes of these kids. We watched as gifts were presented to Wally, Jay and BSUMC. I have grown accustomed to crying during these ceremonious spiritual experiences. My handkerchief soaked my continuous tears. We all dance together. The distant drum in the back of the room maintains a beat that we clap and stomp to. Awesome!!! Before ZOE one year ago, these kids earned only $.53 per day and only ate 3-4 meals per week. Today they earn about $5.00 per day and eat 3 meals per day. As they progress they learn to be more efficient and more confident. This is part of the mission we support. 

We arrived back in Butare and  went by the tailor shop to pick up our prized ZOE handmade clothing. The kids were so proud of their customized and tailor fitted garb! Lots of photos were taken and hugs a plenty. We left happy. The kids’ profits skyrocketed. We left Butare (the second largest city in Rwanda) at 2:00 and traveled back to Kigali. Happy reflections as we made our hilly 3 hour trek back to Kigali. Rwanda is known as the Land of 1000 hills. I question that. Rwanda is more like the Land of a million mountains and valleys. Amazingly beautiful and clean.

My time as a ZOE groupie came to a close just after I inhaled a ham ‘n cheese sandwich at the former Hotel Rwanda. I said farewell to my ZOE family. Epiphanie introduced me to my guide Revis. Revis is 40 years old with 4 kids. He is a full time driver for a very reputable travel company. He is from and still resides in the Kinigi Sector of Musanze. Geographically this is two hours north of Kigali near the border of Uganda and the Republic of Congo. In my language, this is Gorilla country. The elevation of Kigali is 5,141 ft. The elevation of my destination in Musanze, Ruhengeri is 6,100 ft. Mount Karisimbi is 15,200. Mount Kaserutoki is 10,150 ft. Both of these volcano mountains are the backdrop of my hotel property at the Mountain Gorilla View Lodge. A brief description of the Mtn Gorilla View Lodge: The Grove Park Inn meets Out of Africa. Amazing food, live cocktail hour entertainment, individual cottages with large fireplaces and very expressive African decor. Super cool. Yes, and no TV. This place is a high end resort destination for world travelers wanting to get up close and personal with Mtn and Silverback gorillas. I look forward to sharing this experience on Friday evening. Until then, enjoy a few pictures. 

Of all the days spent visiting orphans in the ZOE program, this one was the toughest!  It’s so difficult to write these blogs because there are really words and texts that can adequately express what’s going on in these remote villages.  I try to take photos that will represent the children of Rwanda and the benefits of the ZOE program.  But the truth is, until you actually come Rwanda and see what’s happening there is a no way to fully comprehend.

I had another early start this morning.  A few of us met downstairs in the lobby at 6:00am and went walking around town just as the sun was rising.  The bright orange African sun lit up, just as seen in National Geographic.  We walked as monkeys intensely watched us from the treetops.  We were back at the hotel after 40 minutes for strong coffee and omelettes.  At this point of the day, I had no idea what to expect in the coming hours.  However, I had been told we were visiting a 1st year group of ZOE orphans that live in a small village 1 1/2 hours away.We left Butare promptly at 8:30am.

As we have grown to expect upon village arrivals, we were welcomed with warm hugs, fist bumps and hand shakes.  I am into fist bumping! Even the two yea olds stick their fist out to bump.  The Ross family (Eric, Jenny, Nick(16) and Noah (13) from Apex , NC were the Host Family for Hope for this particular group of orphans.  They were presented gifts from the 65 kids.  Noah was presented a hand made yarn and twine soccer ball.  Our translator then informed all of us they the kids have a special gift for us.  They aske us to challenge them in a game of soccer.  Wow!  This was a hopeful dream coming true.  We piled in the van adn drove 1/4 mile down the road to the soccer field while the kids ran in front of the van.  Our team of 14 did OK. In fact, we won 1-0.  I know they set us up to win but we took it.  We were exhausted and sweaty after 30 minutes. Best time ever!!!!!

We went back to the community building and the Ross family continued to be showered with gifts.  The most special gift was when five kids ranging from 3 years to 16 years walked down the middle aisle carrying lighted candles.  They explained that theses candles symbolize how in only a matter of 4 months they are out of the darkest and now have a lighted future.  There wasn’t a dry eye in the building.

We were then informed that all but 5 kids would leave the building for lunch.  The five children that stayed would tell of their personal stories; where they were, how did they get here and where they are now.  Above I wrote that there is absolutely no way to express these experiences unless you come on a ZOE trip.  Four girls and one boy shared for several minutes.  I will not write about the horrific inhumane conditions they suffered and lived through.  I am still baffled, upset, pissed off and tearful over the stories I heard.  The image of Clarisse will not go away.  She is only 14 years old.  She sat next to me (we sat in a circle.). Clarisse was last to share.  While waiting her turn she breast fed her one year old son.  As she shared she immediately wept.  She told of how she was beaten by a drunk (and now dead) father, living on the streets since she was 5, being separated from her siblings, being raped multiplied times before becoming pregnant when she was 12.  The story continues with malnutrion, a complicated pregnancy, a C-Section, no family support, infections, no shelter for her baby…..She has prayed to God for a long time for Him to take here away to heaven.  Everyone wept.  I did my best to hold it together.  I was in that awkward position of not knowing what to do.  Should I put my arms around her and tell her she doesn’t have to say anything else or do I stay stoic and focused.  It was so difficult.  This is one story.  The other orphans had similar and profound stories also.

After an hour of listening and crying we all stood up and huddled in football form.  Jerry Hill asked that we all embrace each other.  I felt tears dripping on my left arm.  They were not mine.  We were dead silent.  Sniffles and gasps.  Jerry led us in prayer and it was translated.  I am convinced we were all praying to the same GOD.  We asked for His strength and courage. Then Jerry Hill did what Pastor Jerry does best.  He led us in an inpsirational African-American spiritual.  We all belted out as we tightly gripped each other, “Thank you Jesus…For your glory…..” We all sang and repeated the chorus over and over.

Wow.  That’s tough to write about.  I think I will stop, reflect and say a prayer.  Whoever is reading this, I hope you will too.

Six things about Zoe everyone should know:

1.  Zoe is a three year program.

2. ZOE social workers target orphan children and their siblings who are living in extreme poverty.  They live in the streets, are starving (usually only 3 meals per week) and have no support.  Many are beaten and many girls have been raped multiple times.  Most of the targeted orphans are less than 13 years of age.

3. ZOE provides a structured  based curriculum of emplowering orphans to become self-sufficient by owning their own businesses and successfully supporting their younger siblings.

4.  ZOE inspires orphans to be leaders in their communities.

5. ZOE encourages ZOE graduates to be mentoring community partners to young suffering orphans.

6.  For ZOE to produce graduates it cost $100 per child for 3 years.

I am witnessing things so far beyond my comprehension!  I made a commitment to myself today.  I will support ZOE by continuing to build my relationship with the ZOE programs currently in place.  My girls will have the opportunity to travel to Rwanda and/or neighboring countries where ZOE programs are in place to experience first hand what poverty, hope, and Spirit is all about.

On a lighter note, but still part of ZOE, we all shopped at a local tailoring and fabric shop owned by four ZOE graduates.  I had two shirts made. We also visited the Cultural Museum. We were entertained by African dancers from the university. The drummers ROCKED!!!

This afternoon were traveled down a long hilly secondary road to a small village. We were welcomed by 165 orphans. They opened their hearts with singing and dancing. We were are engaged and danced until we were gasping for air. The energy was the most incredible thing I have ever experienced! It’s important that I am clear. We were received by 165 ZOE orphans. This did not include the 200 or so kids not in the program. These other kids are most likely cared for by a parent, grandparent or relative. Whenever we drive off in the van my heart melts. Today I sat in the last row of the van and as we drove off I looked back through the window and saw 100’s of barefoot, partially clothed, smiling, cheering and yelling kids running after us. I didn’t know whether to cry, laugh or wave. I accomplished all three. There were at least 20 kids that chased our van through the dense dust wake for a mile, picking up enthusiastic little kids along the way. It’s hard to tell the difference between the little boys and the little girls. You have to look closely. The girls are usually wearing skirts, the boys wear loose fitting shorts that look like sewed together fabrics. All the kids have the same haircut. It’s really not until the girls hit puberty that you can tell their differences. So, looking through the rear glass of the van I smile, cry and wave. I tell myself, “Stay strong Hubie!”  I know with every smile, every hug I give and my mere presence in their lives yesterday, today and tomorrow that I am making a difference. ZOE ‘s success means No More Isolation for a million orphans in Rwanda. Today I remain ever grateful, humble and spiritually connected! I owe this blessing to the kids.