I had a bitter sweet mentality this morning when I woke up.  My last day in Rwanda! I’m not quite sure what to write about today. I know this. My body requires less sleep than a few years back.  I had nothing to do today except get organized, reorganize, pack, repack and then repeat the cycle.  This is a common occurrence I suppose when you travel abroad.  It’s amazing all the loot and swag I collect along the way while traveling.  I’m like a little kid.  I see some trinket, pamphlet or a book of matches and I just have to have it as a souvenir.  These are the things that you scatter about on the bedroom floor when you get home and then try to engage the family in every detail of some meaningless material and why this is important.  That’s me. Gifts for loved ones and friends.  I do have fun buying for others. I was committed to spend every Franc on my person.  I was successful!  After breakfast in the lodge at 6:00am, I went back to start the packing process.  There was a knock on the door.  I called out, “Come in.”  The young man that waited on me for the past four days was standing there with a bag.  Big smile and partial grin with big wide open eyes!  “Mister Ooburot.  I have gift for you.  I hope you enjoy and come back to Kinigi Village.”  I opened the brown bag to find a Rawandan “wish basket” and a hand carved wooden wall piece.  Wow!  I went to shake his hand but recoiled and instead gave him a huge hug, one brother to another.  I think it’s so cool how proud he was.  From what I have seen and experienced throughout Rwanda, the people are proud and exceptionally generous.  It was hard not to tear up.

By mid-morning I could feel the muscles in my legs begin to tighten up from yesterday’s climb to Bisoke Crater Lake.  So, what was I to do?  Idea! I limped to the main lodge and spoke to the head concierge. I inquired about a massage.  “No problem Mister Yurburo. In 30 minutes massage will be at your room.”  Nice!  And that’s what happened.  A wooden table was brought in with padded blankets.  Next thing I knew my head was peering out my big cottage window at the Virunga Mountain range as strong hands worked magic on my body.  Just what I needed.  An hour massage for 40,000 Rwandan Francs.  After a quick shower I toted bags to the reception area and settled up with incidental expenditures. I had 45 minutes to eat my last lunch before Regis arrived at 2:30.

The drive time from Kinigi Village in Masanza to Kigali is roughly two hours. Regis insisted we take our time because we had ample time due to the fact that my flight was not scheduled to leave until 10:00pm. We drove around Masanza and he showed me his home.  There is a lot of new construction going on.  A 6 story, 2 block shopping building is underway.  Also, a new hotel is under construction. The economy is doing well and it shows.  

Church day foot traffic crowded the streets.  The colors of women’s fabrics and dresses were awesome!  It reminded me of Indian soiurees.  The “spirit” of the people was contagious. I said a quick prayer and reminded myself of just how grateful I am. I have been positively influenced by the dynamic culture of Rwanda.  In two short weeks, I have grown spiritually.  I feel so alive! The Rwandans have spoken to me in ways I never know possible.  The orphans of ZOE Ministries are responsible for my outlook on life today.  I prayed that I never let go of the feeling of love and peace. I prayed for the  safety, health and prosperity of ALL of Gods children. Amen!

Today was a busy busy day. I woke up again at 5:30am. I quickly arranged my day back for my a strenuous hike up Mount Bisoke. I also packed several boxes of condoms I brought from home to give to the Kinigi medical clinic. Rwanda, like so may African countries, has an HIV/AIDS problem as well as the lack of contraceptives. Hopefully, the boxe of condoms will be put to good use. The battered boxes were smushed from travel. I had to discard several boxes because I felt the contents were compromised. That would defeat the purpose. 

I have several pictures to post but my pictures are having a hard time downloading. Often, the power flickers and the Wifi takes a while for it to come back, so photos are hard to post during these times. The hike up Mt. Bisoke and Crater lake was incredibly strenuous. We hiked straight up to 12,500 feet gaining 4,000 feet from the start. Five miles up, five miles down. Alfonso was my porter. The views from the crater lake were magnificent. We started at 9:30 and finished at 4:00. The altitude was tough but that’s once we crossed to 12,000 feet. I was winded but after quick stops frequently and swigs of water I was back to putting one foot in front of the other. We arrived at the top at 12:15ish. I had an awesome picnic lunch from the hotel. Ham ‘n Cheese bananas, passion fruit and fig newtons never tasted so good! The hiking group consisted of mainly students and Peace Corp volunteers from the USA and France. The best hiker of the group was a 46 year old woman from Denver, CO. She has been reaching English in Kigari for the past year. She was in incredible shape! But I managed to hang with her as we led to group of 26 up this rugged beast of a mountain. Actually, our guide led and he was led by the National Park spotters carrying guns. 

We came down the mountain fairly quickly and breathing became normal. We arrived back at the parking lot at 4:00. I have hiked a lot of mountains. This hike was the most difficult climb of them all. The Grand and Middle Tetons in Jackson Hole, WY were easier than Mt. Bisoke (3,711 meters.) I’m happy about this accomplishment.

Regis and I then headed to the medical clinic down the road for my special safe sex delivery. I think he laughed at me the whole way there. He said he had never seen a visitor do this before. Oh well. We pulled up to the clinic and there was one man standing outside. We had a language breakdown and I think he was confused why I was there. The clinic was a small one room cement structure with an attached outhouse. There was a Red Cross above the front door. Regis stepped out and explained to the man of my intent. He left and came back with a woman that looked about 12 years old. She was equillivent to a physicians assistant. She was also the mid-wife of the village. She pointed us to go next door and a nurse who runs the Kinigi Health Centre will help us. Regis translated. We met the head nurse after security personnel cleared us. I didn’t catch his name. I handed him a brown bag full of condoms, feminine products and lots of cold and infection remedies. He loved the Airborne bottles. I tried to clean out my medicine bag. It was also nice to unload the maxi-pads and contraceptives I have been toting around.  Regis said I made a good choice on donated items. He said female products and “the condom” are very good gifts to the clinic. What a trip! We giggled all the way back to the hotel. I guess we can find humor in everthing.Amazing day! I’m happy to have a restful evening. I took four Advil. Now, off to dinner! 

Amahoro means ‘Peace’. I think I found peace today except when the female Mountain Gorilla brushed up against me as she and her infant baby made way past me to reach the next vegetarian buffet. Yep! That happened! I’m glad I had just relieved myself 25 minutes prior or else I would have had a wet and/or soiled gorilla experience. This image is two of the females (mom and baby girl) representing the Amahoro Group. I had the privilege to meet 15 of their family members at an elevation of 2,700 meters (or 9,100 ft.) Today was about Mountain Gorilla love!

My experiences in Rwanda for the past 12 days have scaled the spectrum of emotions. Today is no exception. I awoke bright eyed at 5:30am with a sunrise beaming through the window and sheer curtains opposite my bed. I had a predetermination and vision of what the day had in store. I was going to see Me Some gorilla!!!! The sunrise temperature was 48. Blue sky. No humidity. No breeze. The locals say this weather is typical for this time of year. In fact, 9 months out of the year the weather is consistent with this morning’s forecast. High 85 degrees and sunny. Perfect weather for my first mountain gorilla trek! I gathered my essential belongings and walked the pathway to the lodge for breakfast. This place is amazing in every way. The grounds are so well groomed and manecured. Endogenous plants and budding flowers give way to healthy butterflies and birds. Everything edible on the breakfast buffet had my name on it. Jeremy fixed me a loaded omelet. I crowded my omelet plate with fresh pineapple, banana and oatmeal. I was advised to eat a big breakfast because you don’t know what gorilla family you may be treking to. Some gorilla family addresses are 2-3 miles in the bush and others can be 4-6 miles. Easy, moderate or difficult routes to 8 different gorilla groups throughout the park are not assigned until you arrive at the Volcano National Park headquarter post. So, a full belly after breakfast is important for the unknown journey. Our guide was Jerome. He has a BS Social Science from the university in Butari. I hired a porter to carry my backpack. This $10 expense is not necessary but carrying people’s gear, no matter the weight, is what these guys do for a living. There were 9 of us in our grouping. We drove 2 miles to the entrance of the Park. Jerome informed us we may see buffalo, golden monkeys and an occasional elephant. Elephants in these parts are extremely dangerous because they’re aggressive. This is why our group was led by a National Park ranger with a semi-automatic weapon. We hiked for 3 miles until we came to a halt. Through a radio transmission Jerome was informed by gorilla spotters we should make an immediate left turn and begin the bush whacking trek. We followed our porters who used machetes to line a pathway. Crazy crazy crazy! And very steep. Footing was difficult. Alas! I turned to my left and five feet away from me I saw my first momma gorilla and baby. They were nestled in the thick bush. “No problem Huber (that’s French),” said Jerome. “You are good man. Sit down and take lots of picture. You are now in the home of 19 mountain gorilla family called Amahoro Group.” I think I said holy s##t! Me and momma, me and baby… Our eyes met for the first time from only 5 feet away. After a few minutes we bush whacked another 20 yards. Whoa!! The big daddy Silverback. Jerome said he was 25 years old. He was graciously eating shoots. 450 pounds and a huge head. I can’t remember what expletive came out of my mouth. He watched me but he was only observant from a 10 foot distance. I simultaneously took photos with my iPhone and my small Cannon. No need for zooms lense. Incredible! It’s a regulatory policy that visitors have only one hour to visit with the gorillas. Within a 30 yard radius we introduced ourselves to a total of 17 of the 19 Amahoro members. My words can’t describe the emotions I felt in that one hour. The only way to know is to experience this yourself. Sitting here writing this I am still speechless. I feel like I have been dreaming. I have jungle fever!

Tomorrow a guide will lead me up Mount Bisoke. It’s an active volcano in the Virunga Mountains. It straddles the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, but the summit is located in Rwanda. At 12,175 feet I hear the views are breathtaking! I can’t wait!!!! Enjoy a few pictures of our distant cousins. Love and PEACE!