It’s Thursday evening. My sensory system is perplexed by a noteworthy reality. Body odor is just something that occurs when there is limited water source and money to afford hygienic products. As a traveler to Third World countries it’s something you just get used to. Sure, it takes a few days to endure but you come around. I have just accepted the fact that I,too, stink! Rwanda is no different than so many foreign and third world countries. We are strongly advised not to drink tap water or have ice in our drinks. And while showering it takes a conscious effort not to let your mouth open.  Whatever happens, don’t swallow in Africa! Getting back to BO. I’m not completely convinced it’s me. I do my best to wash my hands and face often, shower daily and scrub with good ole Irish Spring and use Old Spice deodorant. In the last couple of days I’m not sure what the heck is going on! I said it above. I stink. While washing up before dinner tonight I thought it wise to take a quick shower. I have an awesome bathroom but there is definitely an issue. The hot water is far far far from warm. It also spews brown murky water. I did the best I could do to bird bathe with my wash cloth and Irish Spring. I looked at my wash cloth once my shivering subsided and it was completely brown. This was not dust off my body. Brown tap water. So, you have to make tough choices sometimes. Do you bathe in cold brown water or do you dab yourself with stick deodorant as often as you can? Or, do you just endure and accept You Stink. Jury is still out for me. 

TODAY:

Revis picked me up at 6:30 and took me to the National Park headquarters where I bought a pass for a guided trip for the Golden Monkey trek. It was a fabulous 40 minute hike deep into the jungle. We saw four large family of monkeys. I took lots of pictures and met some really cool people from Switzerland, New Zealand and Belgium. 

At 1:00 I had Revis arrange a public school visit with primary grade children (1st grade -8th grade.) It was so fun! Each class welcomed me with a song in English. In return I told them about President Obama, the Statue of Liberty and LeBron James. I did try to lead them in Bob Marley’s song “One Love”. I think I convinced them they were better singers than me. The rest of the day was spent relaxing back at the resort interacting with staff and guests from all over the world. It was nice to have a “nothing to do” day.  Enjoy a few pictures of Golden Monkeys and landscape. Tomorrow is my gorilla trek. Jungle boogie!

It’s Wednesday in Butare. Hump day! It’s also our last day in Rwanda as a ZOE group. Let me clarify: My last day with this group of 14 brothers and sisters whom I’ve had the privilege to get to know in the best possible way. This has been my first mission trip.  I’m not sure what took me so long to commit. For years I have heard people’s stories of how mission trips helped them grow in all aspects of their lives. Today I’m a believer in the journey of mission work. I learned a valuable lesson about the ZOE mission. There is a two way street benefit to serving others that works concomitantly. First direction: I pour my heart and soul into these kids and I feel proud,uplifted and whole because I’m convinced I’m making a difference in their lives. Opposing direction: The kids receive the power of love from us Missionaries. They see how the power of God is working in their lives. They feel the transformation. They witness me, the Muzungu (white man) cry tears of joy. They witness the forces of the human spirit collide and they feel hope and pride. 

Their eyes tell the story. I watched as Josilina, a 17 year old matriarch, hold her little sister and brother close to her side as her 65 orphans brother and sisters sang African spirituals upon our arrival. Josilina’s eyes said to her siblings, “We are with God. We are better now.” The pace of their clapping and foot stomping rhythms would rapidly increase whenever their eyes met. Hope! Love! Pride! As Pastor Jerry would say, “That’s God working baby!” We experienced a number of these “gifts” today as we traveled to a bustling village called Mater Boni Consilil southeast of Butare. We passed a huge banana tree orchard that the orphans in this Sector (Village) harvest and plant year round. The banana leaves are sold to the nearby beer distillery that produces Rwandan banana beer. We also took notice of the fish ponds. Interesting…..The ponds have raised wooden platforms over the lake beds that resemble chicken coups. Not for chickens. The ZOE orphans raise rabbits in these structures. The coups floors are wired mesh which gives way for rabbit poop to fall into the water. The fish eat the poop. Everyone wins with this efficiency and genius until the slaughtering takes place at the local village market. Our next stop was the bustling agricultural market of the Sector. We met our first group of orphans that are sponsored by Wally Fridy, Jay Hill and a BSUMC Sunday School class. They have just completed their first year with ZOE. We met Josilina (16) and Josephina (17). Their wholesale produce included tomatoes, avacado, rooted veggies, bananas, and a lot of other native Rwandan seedlings that I can’t recall names for. Their orphan brothers were also rocking! We made way to the community center where we met the whole group. This is where I focused on the eyes of these kids. We watched as gifts were presented to Wally, Jay and BSUMC. I have grown accustomed to crying during these ceremonious spiritual experiences. My handkerchief soaked my continuous tears. We all dance together. The distant drum in the back of the room maintains a beat that we clap and stomp to. Awesome!!! Before ZOE one year ago, these kids earned only $.53 per day and only ate 3-4 meals per week. Today they earn about $5.00 per day and eat 3 meals per day. As they progress they learn to be more efficient and more confident. This is part of the mission we support. 

We arrived back in Butare and  went by the tailor shop to pick up our prized ZOE handmade clothing. The kids were so proud of their customized and tailor fitted garb! Lots of photos were taken and hugs a plenty. We left happy. The kids’ profits skyrocketed. We left Butare (the second largest city in Rwanda) at 2:00 and traveled back to Kigali. Happy reflections as we made our hilly 3 hour trek back to Kigali. Rwanda is known as the Land of 1000 hills. I question that. Rwanda is more like the Land of a million mountains and valleys. Amazingly beautiful and clean.

My time as a ZOE groupie came to a close just after I inhaled a ham ‘n cheese sandwich at the former Hotel Rwanda. I said farewell to my ZOE family. Epiphanie introduced me to my guide Revis. Revis is 40 years old with 4 kids. He is a full time driver for a very reputable travel company. He is from and still resides in the Kinigi Sector of Musanze. Geographically this is two hours north of Kigali near the border of Uganda and the Republic of Congo. In my language, this is Gorilla country. The elevation of Kigali is 5,141 ft. The elevation of my destination in Musanze, Ruhengeri is 6,100 ft. Mount Karisimbi is 15,200. Mount Kaserutoki is 10,150 ft. Both of these volcano mountains are the backdrop of my hotel property at the Mountain Gorilla View Lodge. A brief description of the Mtn Gorilla View Lodge: The Grove Park Inn meets Out of Africa. Amazing food, live cocktail hour entertainment, individual cottages with large fireplaces and very expressive African decor. Super cool. Yes, and no TV. This place is a high end resort destination for world travelers wanting to get up close and personal with Mtn and Silverback gorillas. I look forward to sharing this experience on Friday evening. Until then, enjoy a few pictures. 

Of all the days spent visiting orphans in the ZOE program, this one was the toughest!  It’s so difficult to write these blogs because there are really words and texts that can adequately express what’s going on in these remote villages.  I try to take photos that will represent the children of Rwanda and the benefits of the ZOE program.  But the truth is, until you actually come Rwanda and see what’s happening there is a no way to fully comprehend.

I had another early start this morning.  A few of us met downstairs in the lobby at 6:00am and went walking around town just as the sun was rising.  The bright orange African sun lit up, just as seen in National Geographic.  We walked as monkeys intensely watched us from the treetops.  We were back at the hotel after 40 minutes for strong coffee and omelettes.  At this point of the day, I had no idea what to expect in the coming hours.  However, I had been told we were visiting a 1st year group of ZOE orphans that live in a small village 1 1/2 hours away.We left Butare promptly at 8:30am.

As we have grown to expect upon village arrivals, we were welcomed with warm hugs, fist bumps and hand shakes.  I am into fist bumping! Even the two yea olds stick their fist out to bump.  The Ross family (Eric, Jenny, Nick(16) and Noah (13) from Apex , NC were the Host Family for Hope for this particular group of orphans.  They were presented gifts from the 65 kids.  Noah was presented a hand made yarn and twine soccer ball.  Our translator then informed all of us they the kids have a special gift for us.  They aske us to challenge them in a game of soccer.  Wow!  This was a hopeful dream coming true.  We piled in the van adn drove 1/4 mile down the road to the soccer field while the kids ran in front of the van.  Our team of 14 did OK. In fact, we won 1-0.  I know they set us up to win but we took it.  We were exhausted and sweaty after 30 minutes. Best time ever!!!!!

We went back to the community building and the Ross family continued to be showered with gifts.  The most special gift was when five kids ranging from 3 years to 16 years walked down the middle aisle carrying lighted candles.  They explained that theses candles symbolize how in only a matter of 4 months they are out of the darkest and now have a lighted future.  There wasn’t a dry eye in the building.

We were then informed that all but 5 kids would leave the building for lunch.  The five children that stayed would tell of their personal stories; where they were, how did they get here and where they are now.  Above I wrote that there is absolutely no way to express these experiences unless you come on a ZOE trip.  Four girls and one boy shared for several minutes.  I will not write about the horrific inhumane conditions they suffered and lived through.  I am still baffled, upset, pissed off and tearful over the stories I heard.  The image of Clarisse will not go away.  She is only 14 years old.  She sat next to me (we sat in a circle.). Clarisse was last to share.  While waiting her turn she breast fed her one year old son.  As she shared she immediately wept.  She told of how she was beaten by a drunk (and now dead) father, living on the streets since she was 5, being separated from her siblings, being raped multiplied times before becoming pregnant when she was 12.  The story continues with malnutrion, a complicated pregnancy, a C-Section, no family support, infections, no shelter for her baby…..She has prayed to God for a long time for Him to take here away to heaven.  Everyone wept.  I did my best to hold it together.  I was in that awkward position of not knowing what to do.  Should I put my arms around her and tell her she doesn’t have to say anything else or do I stay stoic and focused.  It was so difficult.  This is one story.  The other orphans had similar and profound stories also.

After an hour of listening and crying we all stood up and huddled in football form.  Jerry Hill asked that we all embrace each other.  I felt tears dripping on my left arm.  They were not mine.  We were dead silent.  Sniffles and gasps.  Jerry led us in prayer and it was translated.  I am convinced we were all praying to the same GOD.  We asked for His strength and courage. Then Jerry Hill did what Pastor Jerry does best.  He led us in an inpsirational African-American spiritual.  We all belted out as we tightly gripped each other, “Thank you Jesus…For your glory…..” We all sang and repeated the chorus over and over.

Wow.  That’s tough to write about.  I think I will stop, reflect and say a prayer.  Whoever is reading this, I hope you will too.

Six things about Zoe everyone should know:

1.  Zoe is a three year program.

2. ZOE social workers target orphan children and their siblings who are living in extreme poverty.  They live in the streets, are starving (usually only 3 meals per week) and have no support.  Many are beaten and many girls have been raped multiple times.  Most of the targeted orphans are less than 13 years of age.

3. ZOE provides a structured  based curriculum of emplowering orphans to become self-sufficient by owning their own businesses and successfully supporting their younger siblings.

4.  ZOE inspires orphans to be leaders in their communities.

5. ZOE encourages ZOE graduates to be mentoring community partners to young suffering orphans.

6.  For ZOE to produce graduates it cost $100 per child for 3 years.

I am witnessing things so far beyond my comprehension!  I made a commitment to myself today.  I will support ZOE by continuing to build my relationship with the ZOE programs currently in place.  My girls will have the opportunity to travel to Rwanda and/or neighboring countries where ZOE programs are in place to experience first hand what poverty, hope, and Spirit is all about.

On a lighter note, but still part of ZOE, we all shopped at a local tailoring and fabric shop owned by four ZOE graduates.  I had two shirts made. We also visited the Cultural Museum. We were entertained by African dancers from the university. The drummers ROCKED!!!

This afternoon were traveled down a long hilly secondary road to a small village. We were welcomed by 165 orphans. They opened their hearts with singing and dancing. We were are engaged and danced until we were gasping for air. The energy was the most incredible thing I have ever experienced! It’s important that I am clear. We were received by 165 ZOE orphans. This did not include the 200 or so kids not in the program. These other kids are most likely cared for by a parent, grandparent or relative. Whenever we drive off in the van my heart melts. Today I sat in the last row of the van and as we drove off I looked back through the window and saw 100’s of barefoot, partially clothed, smiling, cheering and yelling kids running after us. I didn’t know whether to cry, laugh or wave. I accomplished all three. There were at least 20 kids that chased our van through the dense dust wake for a mile, picking up enthusiastic little kids along the way. It’s hard to tell the difference between the little boys and the little girls. You have to look closely. The girls are usually wearing skirts, the boys wear loose fitting shorts that look like sewed together fabrics. All the kids have the same haircut. It’s really not until the girls hit puberty that you can tell their differences. So, looking through the rear glass of the van I smile, cry and wave. I tell myself, “Stay strong Hubie!”  I know with every smile, every hug I give and my mere presence in their lives yesterday, today and tomorrow that I am making a difference. ZOE ‘s success means No More Isolation for a million orphans in Rwanda. Today I remain ever grateful, humble and spiritually connected! I owe this blessing to the kids.

“I can hear those church bells ringing ringing…!”  That’s Carrie Underwood.  Well, I didn’t hear church bells this morning at 7:30 when I woke up.  In fact I heard absolutely nothing.  It was so quiet!  I finished packing my bags before walking downstairs to eat another great breakfast.  The relationships I am making with new friends as awesome.  The group from Raleigh (near Raleigh) are great.  I have also expanded my relationships with Wally Fridy, Jay Hill and Rev. Jerry Hill.  Jay’s girlfriend Kelsey and fellow BSUMC members Rosie Jordan and Kimberly Carter are all amazing and so much fun.  Our whole group has definitely bonded.  Lots of laughter and sharing of past stories and future aspirations have been exchanged.We packed up the van and left the hotel at 10:00. We made our way into the heart of Kigali and suddenly we saw 100’s of people in their best dressed threads.  Congregates were marching spiritually and proudly into the mega church house.  Being the only white people we were welcomed with hugs and handshakes.  The church choir revved up their voice boxes and in a matter of seconds I was mesmerized by the traditional African spiritual hymns and ballads that were backed up with organs, steel drums and guitars.  Totally awesome!  The lead vocalist, a man in his 30’s, had amazing energy and kept the gospel like choir on point with leadership and zeal.  I had chill bumps through the first 30 minutes of the service.  I actually recorded some of the spectacle on my phone….discreetly.  The recording will never do this show justice.  Alleluia!!!!!  The sermon was a little tough to follow, although I did understand the scripture lesson in Acts. We left the church and returned to the former Hotel Rwanda for a fabulous brunch buffet by the pool. A four piece band entertained us while we relaxed and I ate a primarily vegetarian meal.  We left Kigali at 2:30pm.  We traveled south for 3 hours to Butare.  The roads are awesome.  So much better than our SC roads. Gov. Haley should come visit and learn something.  Rwanda is also amazingly clean.  There is no trash anywhere.  The rolling hills and landscape are absolutely gorgeous.  We gained a lot of elevation and traveled through many small villages.  Every passerby along the roadway smiled and waved at us as we passed.  I have never felt safer and welcomed everywhere we go!  We made it to Butare at 5:30.  Shantel (our ZOE guide) took us directly to a retail shop owned and operated by 4 ZOE graduates.  They are now in their early 20’s and are running a very successful shop.  I bought lots!  The quality of the hand woven baskets are amazing.  The handbags, aprons, earrings, puzzles are pieces of artwork.  But it’s not just about the merchandise. Each of these young adults were left as orphans 22 years ago.  If you have been reading this blog out may have figured out the significance of 22 years ago.  In 1994, the genocide massacre took place throughout Rwanda and over one million civilians were killed (mostly Tutsi.). These 4 kids are survivors of the genocide.  It’s because of ZOE and the support of the international community that these kids are now prospering.  I am proud of Buncombe Street United Methodist Church for their commitment to support ZOE.  I have seen first hand the benefits of our financial and Christian support.  We left our ZOE friends with a heavy load of gifts and drove down the street to our hotel.  We were spoiled in Kigali by the hotel and the 4 Star status. The hotel is a bit more of what I had expected on this trip.  Spotty electricity and Internet service, hot water is warm at best, plumbing smells…go figure and a large mosquito net surrounding my hard bedded mattress.  But no matter the differences in luxury status I am so happy.  I am proud to experience ALL of Rwanda… The good, the bad, the sad but especially the hope, the love and the beauty of a culture of people so proud.  I will never know what day to day life is all about in Rwanda. No running water, no electricity, mud huts, twine soccer balls, no shoes, one change of clothes, one meal per day, no hygiene products, etc. The list goes on and on.  I have no idea.  One thing I have learned from the Rwandans and ZOE orphans they have which dominates what I have is faith.  

The most striking and profound thing I have heard yet is from Odette, the 18 year old orphan who is raising her 3 younger siblings. Writing this brings tears to my eyes…..We asked her to speak about her life today and where she and her brothers used to be.  They used to live in a roadside ditch and had to steal for food.  Her parents died when she was 11. Odette said after telling her story: “Look how beautiful I am today!”   

I sprung out of bed at 5:30am.  Apparently I have not adjusted to the 7 hour difference.  The dining room was open at 6:00 and for the second day I had the regular buffet menu which consisted of an omelet, cereal and a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.  Lots of coffee.  At 9:00 we met in the board room of the hotel for a group meeting. All 15 of us had the opportunity to share some things about ourselves and what encouraged us to participate in Zoe.  Several of us gave intimate accounts of where we are in our personal lives, our motivators and our ambitions.  We also shared our thoughts about yesterday’s visits.  

Jeremiah 29:10-13:

This is what the Lord says:  “You will be in Babylon for seventy years.  But then I will come and do for you all the good things I have promised, and I will bring you home again. For I know the plans I have for you,” says the Lord. “They are plans for good and not for disaster, to give you a future and a hope.  In those days when you pray, I will listen.  If you look for me wholeheartedly, you will find me.

This is the signature verse for ZOE.  Hope is thriving throughout Rwanda.  It’s often heard that it takes an entire village to raise a child.  This proverb rings loud and clear wherever ZOE Ministries is.  Empowering orphans by supporting their God gifted skills is the key to the mission.  

This afternoon we visited the Genocide Museum.  In 1994, in a period of 3 months, over one million Rwandans were a specified target of the genocidaires for murder, rape and mutilation, so as to ensure that a new generation of Tutsis would not emerge. Hutu militia and the Hutu leaders’ primary objective was to exterminate all Tutsis.  The museum is a place of mourning and a place of education.  It’s very quiet with the exception of visitors’ audio devices depicting the history and origin of the Tutsis and the Hutus.  I could hear personal accounts of survivors stories on the audio devices throughout the museum. There were lots of tears.  The outside of the museum was surrounded by beautiful memorial gardens dedicated to families, relatives and friends of the 250,000 victims buried on the site. I bought a few times from the museum gift shop before meeting my fellows back on the bus.  

Our driver and guide, Jeremaih, gave us a wonderful site seeing tour of the Kigali.  We saw the US Embassy, the Presidents house, government buildings, the futbol stadium and a lot more.  We then went to the Hotel Des Milles Collines (formerly Hotel Rwanda) for a fantastic dinner.  We sat outside and the weather was perfect.  And no mosquitos.

Tomorrow we will experience a church service filled with love, dance and song.  That’s my kind of church!

I woke up at my normal USA time of 6:20 this morning. Quick delightful shower before walking downstairs to breakfast.i was pleasantly surprised to see a huge buffet style breakfast and an omelet cook. I definitely needed a hardy breakfast! Fifteen of us met our Rwandian guide Epiphanie. She oversees all of ZOE Ministries in Rwanda. She is beyond fascinating! She explained that our schedule had slightly changed for today. She explained that the last Saturday of the month is a national clean up day and businesses are closed. So therefore today is going to be our first village day so we can see the ZOE kids working their prospective trades. We gathered on the van and traveled to our first stop about an hour away. We passed fields of sugar cane, coffee, soy bean, potato crops, rice fields and banana orchards. School kids on bikes and foot were everywhere. The village was Rwamiko-Gicumbi. The sponsored group was Umucyo. We met two girls who have been working in the ZOE program for two years. They had a roadside market selling avocados, potato and bananas. They were 17 and 16 years of age and each had two younger siblings they were supporting. We next visited a retail shop and met three girls ages 18, 17 and 16. Each of them were also head of the households caring for their younger siblibings and also ailing parents. One of the girl’s mom was blind, the other mother suffered from severe mental illness. Their seamstress business is flourishing! I bought a beautiful table cloth for 6000 Rwandan Francs ($7.69 US.) We packed up at drove about 2000ft in elevation to visit with the second sponsored group called Twizere. There were 69 kids that represented the Potato Group Project. We interacted with them and watched as they harvested and planted their crops. We were invited to a home visit. Odell is a 17 year girl who is over the household of her three siblings (17, 13 and 9.) their mother died 14 years ago and their father passed away 2 years ago. He is buried behind their small stable. They live without electricity or running water. The water well is 2 miles away. The only furniture they possess is a single sized bed that is shared by Odell and her youngest brother. Banana leaves and oil heat water. Through ZOE they have been able to sell vegetables and earn enough profit to buy a cow. They now eat three meals a day (porridge.) I used their outhouse which was nothing more than a drafty Adobe like structure with a small hole in the dirt floor. The inside was infested with mosquitos and flies. We then gathered at the nearby community center and all 69 ZOE kids presented us with songs and dance. We were honored with gifts ranging from aprons and hand bags to computer bags and stoles. These kids honored us with gifts they made! I cried tears of joy as I thanked and hugged each child. I am inspired by them because they are living examples of how God works and fulfills HIS promise. They are believers. I learned a huge lesson about hope and love today! We parted ways with tears of joy and cultural Rwandan songs. I had three kids hold on to me. Perhaps they didn’t want me to go and they were sad. But I am choosing to believe they were giving me a gift of hope and everlasting spirit! God bless them all!

Me and Josie before leaving for Rwanda.

Wednesday June 22nd, 2016 finally arrived.  I never would have guessed my interest was in Rwanda, Africa.  I had 6 months to plan for this trip through ZOE Ministries.  In December 2015, the Rev. Jerry Hill approached me in the parlor at BSUMC interested in my recent travels to India.  Through a short dialogue he asked me if I would have an interest in traveling to Rwanda for 10 days in June.  I inquired and probed until I learned this ZOE trip would be to interact with orphans in nine orphanages in nine villages throughout Rwanda, a country about the size of Maryland.  Rwanda has a population of around 11 million people.  It’s reported that more than half the population at 18 years or younger.  The more Jerry and I talked the more excited I became.  Without further ado I spoke the Jerry the following week and told Jerry “I am all in!” And so, I began the extensive paperwork administrative details for my first mission trip.

I spent two weeks making preparations.  There is always more to do than you think.  My first order was to set an appointment with Passport Health.  My assigned nurses updated my Yellow Card after she stuck me several times with an abundance of vaccines.  Yellow Fever vaccine was the big one.  Your Yellow Card must document this upon entry to Rwanda.  My tetanus, Hepatitis, Typhoid Fever and Influenza were given too.  No problem.

While planning for the 9 day mission trip it occurred to me that a popular main attraction in Rwanda are the gorillas.  The mountain Silve Back gorillas live in the dense mountainous regions of Northern Rwanda around the Volcano National Park.  This regions borders The Republic of Congo and Uganda.  I made a vast decision.  Through the ZOE network I was making arrangements with the travel guide to stay in Rwanda an extra five days to go Gorilla Treking.  My place of refuge is the Mountain Gorilla View Lodge.  I will have an assigned driver for my 5 days and several days to go on safari excursions on the days not assigned to my Gorilla Trek.

The trip so far has been smooth.  I am currently over Western Europe with Brussells, Belgium as the first layover.  The second leg takes us to Uganda, then finally to Kigali, Rwanda.  The estimated total flight time is approximately 16 hours.  This is another trip of a lifetime!  I feel spiritually fit and I am ready to make wonderful memories.