December 3, 2015 – Today was a fabulous day in Jaipur! We slept late and met Govind and Artie at 9:30 to go to the Amber Fort. On the drive, we stopped for a picture of the fort from below and also a picture with the snake charmers. This was something that Hubert really wanted to do. There were two charmers and they opened their baskets and the snakes popped out. I jumped a little and Govind explained that the venom and fangs had been removed. It still freaked me out. The snakes were a little agitated but as soon as the charmers started playing their flutes, they literally became mesmerized and began dancing in a hypnotic way. It was freaky. Well, Hubert jumped in between them and the next you know they put a truban on his head and then taught him how to play the flute. I was laughing and trying to take pictures as quickly as possible. Then I went behind for a picture too but didn’t get too close. Even though you know they can’t hurt you, there is still fear. I was ready to be done with that!

Amber fort is a fortress and palance on the hillside which was built in the late 1500s by the king of Rajasthan, Raja Man Singh. The fort itself is beautifully ornate and fascinating, but one of the reasons that many tourists go is for the elephant ride from the bottom of the hill to the top! Like the good tourists we are, we were ready for the ride! Govind warned us about the street vendors and how pushy they are. He said to completely ignore them and not even say no, because a no will just make them push more. He also told us about photographers that will take your picture and then try to sell to you. He gave us ideas about the cost and how to bargain it down by walking away. 

Hubert and I boarded the elephant and it was hysterical. We were on this basket seat which was not very comfortable! The elephant’s gait is very big so you basically roll along with the elephant. It was not the smoothest ride, but it was super fun! It was a pleasurable ride and as you moved along, you had a wonderful view of the city. When we got to the top and got off the elephant, one of the photographers was there and ready with a book of pictures. We only wanted one. He said it had to be the whoel book for 2,500 rupees which is about $37. No way, so we began walking. He was like a vulture on his non stop. He kept coming and we kept walking towards the entrance of the fort. He came down to 1000 rupees and I said yes to just get him away. Govind said it was too much but since I had agreed, I must take it. The word of each person is very important in the transactions in India. So, I paid about $15 which was way too much, but oh well!

The palace area was very pretty. As soon as we went through the gates, the street vendors were gone. The palace was beautiful and peaceful with wonderful paintings and inlay work. There was a Hall of Mirrors which was breathtaking. It was a courtyard area with open rooms which were inlay in gorgeous mirrors and designs which included niches. You could imagine the royal parties with the area aglow in candles and the light shimmering around. It looked like you were surrounded by diamonds. We then went through the rest of the palace which has many rooms and ramps between the floors, because the queen’s dresses were often brocade with jewels and to get from place to place, servants would wheel her on a cart. It was fun to explore the old fort/palace and imagine the royal life! 

After we left the gates, another photographer came up to us with his pictures. We said we did not want since we already had some but he was so persistent that he was mean. He started with 2500 rupees too, but Hubert finally offered him 300. He was very mean to us and Govind finally intervened and they exchanged words. Finally, the guy gave us the book for 300 rupees which is about $5. So, we now own about 15 pictures of us on an elephant and spent $20!! Oh well, travel lessons always cost a little!

We hopped in Artie’s car and headed off to the countryside. The destination was the Indo-Saracenic Samode Palace which was an old hotel and is now a hotel. Along the way, we stopped in the village of Samode and had a camel ride. Govind and Artie warned us that the camel ride was bumpier than the elephant ride and that they would be nearby if we decided to get off. Well, the camel came out and we got on which was the hardest part. When he stood up from his seated position, you had to hold on! After that, it was very nice and very much like a horse ride, only higher. We walked through the countryside with a nice leader and it was so enjoyable. We saw the farms nearby and just enjoyed being outside. We were on a dirt road and every now and then Artie would check on us to see if we were okay. We went until the end of the town before the road began to go up the mountain. To get off the camel was a little funny too and I started laughing with a squeal. Many villagers watched the silly American woman getting off the camel very ungracefully!

We arrived at the Samode Palace and we were blown away. It was just perfect!! It is a very fine hotel and I felt like I was in Europe. There was a wedding about to happen and preparations were underway. Flowers were everywhere and instead of in vases like we do, the petals are on the ground lining the walkways in patterns. It was amazing. The bride and groom even had their names arranged in petals. We walked up the steps and were greeted with the typical Indian custom of placing a red bindi on your forehead. It is a welcome and we have received this in every hotel. Here, they added some rice to the red mark for good luck. Walking into the hotel felt like walking into another world. We went through the doors and into these rooms that were ornately painted in mosaics. It was gorgeous. The colors glowed and it reminded me of the Saint-Chapelle chapel in Paris – you felt like you were in a jewel box. Mom would love it here! It even had a mirror hall! I couldn’t stop exclaiming and oohing and aahing!!! After many pictures, we went to their dining room for a ncie buffett lunch. 

After lunch, we headed back into Jaipur to shop at a local rug and craft shop. Jaipur is known for their rugs and textiles. Dad had asked me to look at buying him a handmade rug. We met Bali, the owner, and he showed us how the rugs are handknotted and went through the whole process. He also showed us the textiles and the block prints that they are famous for. It was lots of fun and Bali was not a high pressure sales person. I started texting dad some pictures of rugs and it was 5 in the morning for him!! It was very funny. Then Hubert and I found a rug we liked for our kitchen and began asking mom to measure our kitchen for us. It was a crazy shopping experience. We decided to think on it overnight and let him know the next day. We then went into his textile area and we had great luck with some Christmas gifts! It was a fun shopping time!

That night we went to the Raj Hotel and had a wonderful meal outside on their terrace. We had a great waiter and felt like we were in a movie. Hubert ordered the Laal Maas and I had the Byrani Vegetables. It was delicious and we were very happy! As we ate dinner, there were fireworks going off in the distance from a wedding! It felt like they were just for us!