We left our hotel in Delhi at 8:15 for a 3 hour drive to Agra. It was a new highway and very nice and quick. Our driver, Artie, kept talking about the drivers in Agra that did not follow rules and that were crazy. This new highway was nicer than most of the roads in SC, so we had a hard time understanding. 

However, when we got off the highway and drove into the city of Agra, it completely made sense. Agra was insane and our eyes could barely take it all in. There were cows all over the road; bikes and motorcycles everywhere; and drivers just beeping and playing “chicken.” It felt like being in a video game. Artie got more aggressive and began driving like a local- faster and pushier! We arrived at Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb  around 1:30 and met our Agra guide, Anu. 

Itmad-ud-Daulah is also knwon as the “Baby Taj” and it may have been an inspiration for the Taj Mahal. Once you leave the crazy street, you walk into this gorgeous peaceful arean with a jewel box of a tomb. The empress built this garden tomb for her father. It is made all of marble with lots of inlay work. It has white, yellow and brown marble and the detail work is gorgeous. Inside are her parent’s tombs and the walls are decotrated in gorgeous inlay of flowers and paintings of beautiful scenes. It sat on the river and supposedly the emperor and empress would ride their boat over adn sit and watch the work being done. The river now is polluted and very shallow. There were cows on teh sand banks and many poor people. Some little children were far below and begged to us. Hubert threw some ruppees down to them. It is ahrd to turn away from the beggar children who point to their mouths and say “gupta” (which I assume is food or eat!). 

We then had lunch at a restuarant in Agra, The Pinch of Spice. We had chinese food there and it was delicious. Spicy and good. We checked in to the Trident which was a nice and beautiful hotel. Again, you leave the crazy street, drive through a gate and you are in a different world. We received more gifts from Amber Tours (scarf, keychain and lotus dish). I think we are getting special treatment because of mom. Even the driver knew my mom was a travel agent!!!

After 30 mintues, we met Anu in the lobby and a drive to the Agra Fort. To me, the sound of a fort sound boring and in military style. However, in India, the forts were basically the whole cities for the Mughal empires. It is like walking into a book or movie and feeling as if you are a part of 1001 Arabian Nights. The fort has the public spaces, government buildings, the palace, the harem’s living quarters, the wives palaces, mosques, and many pools where there was always rose water for bathing.. The Agra fort even has a tower that is grogeous marble where Shah Jahan (emperor who built the Taj) was imprisoned by his son. The tower had a view of the Taj so Shah jahan could always watch it. The outside is all red sandstone and looks like a fort. Inside the walls is a magical world. The immense size was so impressive and the decadence was breathtaking. Anu was a great guide and you could just envision how the empire was in the 1600s under the Mughal rule. 

It was a very hazy day which is why Anu decided not to take us to the Taj Mahal first, but at this time, we did go to Mehtab Bagh which is essentially the garden area across the river from the Taj. We got our first glimpse of the monument and it was unbelievable. Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal as a tomb and monument for his wife. He wanted it to be so beautiful that the world would never forget their love. I will say that he was very successful! Just seeing it from across the river was spectacular.

We then went to a rug company and saw how the rugs from Agra are made. Beautiful rugs but a little pushy sales! We did not buy! We were exhausted when we arrived back to the hotel around 6:30. The sensory overload in India can be very tiring. We ordered room service (pizza!) and used spotty wi-fi. We went to bed early ready for another adventure. 

Hubert and I woke up early but the tour was not to start until 9:45. We have learned that things start a little later here. 10 is normal business start, lunch around 2 and dinner around 9. We are still in U.S. time, so we are waking up early and ready to go. Hope to be on Indian time soon. 

We met Priti, our guide, and Artie, our driver, at 9:45 and we drove to the Gandhi Smriti house. This was the house that Gandhi was staying in when he was assassinated. We saw the very spot where he was gunned down. Plus there was a fabulous exhibit on his life as well as his room with the possessions he had when he died. He only had 11 items, including his glasses and walking stick. It was a very moving place and there were several school groups there. It was fun to see how the kids responded to Gandhi’s message. 

After that, Artie drove us through Lutyen’s Delhi. This is the area in New Delhi that the British built for 13 years to be their Imperial City. Shortly after it was built, India gained independence and the British buildings were taken over by the new Indian government. It is a beautiful, massive area and is unlike the other areas we have seen. It looks like the Mall in D.C. but the house of the President is huge and more like a palace in Europe. There is even the India Gate which resembles the Arch de Triumph. It was all very impressive. 

The National Crafts Museum was next. It was lots of fun and we learned so much from Priti about the crafts of the country. There was a section of all the textiles and gorgeous saris and fabrics on display. It was a beautiful museum and built in the style of an old Indian home. The museum store was great too with authentic crafts. Hubert and I bought a beautiful bedspread made of old saris sewn together – a type of Indian quilt. Priti told us later that her mother always had her old saris made into bedspreads and that ladies would get together to sew. An Indian style quilting circle!

We then drove to South Delhi and went past the Baha’i House of Worship which is called the Lotus Temple. It is a modern temple built like a giant lotus flower. It resembles the Sydney Opera House. We did not go in but stopped for a picture. Priti said the inside is just open and the outside is the art! We drove towards Humayun’s Tomb which took about 45 minutes with traffic. The drive there was very difficult. Yesterday, the energy of the city inspired us. This drive depressed us. The poverty was extreme. Trash was everywhere and animals were in the street. Traffic was insane and the poor conditions of the people was hard to overlook. We felt that Priti was not bothered by it; it was normal for her. It was very difficult for Hubert and I to understand and we felt so powerless. The sights were overwhelming. 

Once we got to the Tomb, we were not really in the mood for a tourist attraction. We went through the gates and the grounds of the site were well kept and the mood was peaceful. It was as if the poverty on the other side of the gate did not exist. Hubert and I talked to each other for a minute and we both felt the same way – almost physically sick with the injustice of it all. We did not tell Priti how we felt and we tried to carry on as good tourists but the things we witnessed will forever have an impact in our lives. 

The tomb itself was amazing. Built by the wife of the Mughal emperor, Humayan, it is a gorgeous example of a garden tomb. It is built of red sandstone and white marble. It was built before the Taj Mahal and shows just how mighty the Mughal emperor were. It is enormous and a sight to behold. 

After the tomb, Priti took us to a restaurant for a late lunch. Lodi Garden specializes in Mediterranean food, while she went to pickup the saris that I purchased the day before. Lunch was good and gave us a chance to decompress with all the thoughts we had in our hearts and heads. 

After lunch, Artie took us back to the hotel. We had dinner reservations at 8 and I wanted to wear my new sari. I tried on the top and it was way too tight. I went to the front desk and they sent up a tailor to our room. Within 30 minutes the top was redone and I was able to wear it. I was very excited. I imagine the girls tops won’t fit either but we can have redone in the States. Sometimes you get what you pay for! But, I was so excited to wear my sari and nervous. Priti assured me that it was appropriate to wear it where we were dining and Westerns often wear Indian clothing. 

I dressed and we were off to the restaurant, the Spice Route in the Imperial Hotel. The hotel was gorgeous and when I went in, all guests were sent through a bag check for security. Ladies went behind a screen and I asked the security lady if I had it on correctly. Another woman swept in and began fixing me. They were so kind and made me feel good. The hotel was amazing and there was a wedding going on so many people were wearing saris. However, there were some very fine ones and mine was rather cheap, but I still felt special!

The restaurant was incredible. It took 7 years to build and it is based on the 9 levels of life that everyone goes through – such as birth, love, family, wealth, etc. The art was amazing. The most beautiful restaurant we have ever been to. The food is based on South Asian along the old spice route. I had Shrimp Pad Thai and Hubert had a Thai soup and an amazing lobster dish. It was all fantastic! We had a guided tour of the restaurant afterwards and they explained the art and symbols. 

Funny thing – during dinner, I went to the ladies room. When I was washing my hands, I noticed that the cleaning lady kept looking at me. I smiled at her and she came over and started fixing my sari! She spoke broken English but was trying to explain to me the proper way. She rewrapped me and truthfully, it was much better- I felt less exposed. Everyone was so kind in helping the crazy American lady with her sari! I can’t wait to try it at home with the girls. 

It was a wonderful day, full of gorgeous sights and extreme disparity. India is full of contradictions. At times it is difficult but at times amazing. I realize my blessings even more today and the irony was not lost on me. I saw third world problems up close, but then went back to the hotel and had my first world problem of a too tight sari fixed. My prayers are strong tonight in thanksgiving but also with questions about why. There is so much we can’t understand in this life.